How To Clean Clear Coated Aluminum Wheels

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"Polishing Cast Aluminum Wheels"

An ongoing discussion beginning dorsum in 2001 ...

2001

Q. To whom it may concern- I found this site to exist very helpful in many ways, except one. I have a set of silverish powder coated rims off of a 1996 Trans Am. These wheels are cast aluminum. Chroming, I was told, would cost upwards of $200 a wheel. Is at that place whatsoever way for ME to polish the cast aluminum so the end will look like that of a set of All American Racing Wheels? Or will I accept to ship them to someone?

Thanks-

Josh Jakobe
- Olathe, Kansas
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2001

Q. I take some polished aluminum rims on a four cycle drive truck. They were "cleaned" with an acid base chemical compound and are now dull and discolored. How tin I restore them to the original shine?

Steven Talbot
- Destrehan, Louisiana
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2002

A. Attempt a product called Blueish Magic Metallic Polish .

If that doesn't work, yous can use a product called Mothers Metallic Polish (more abrasive).
... and then go back over the rims with the Blue Magic Metal Polish for a last shine.

If the rims are really bad, you may have to accept them repolished ($80-$100/rim). I am bold that they are not clear coated? If they are clear coated, before yous get them polished you will have to strip the clear coat with a product chosen Tal-Strip [affil. link to info/production on Amazon], information technology is shipping stripper. I think information technology runs about $thirty a gallon. You employ a pigment castor to brush the stripper on the rims and leave the stripper piece of work for well-nigh a one-half an hour and so you just hose them off with a garden hose.

Hope this helps,

Brian Giller
- Bloomington, Illinois
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2005

Q. Hey Guys! Us Girls accept the same problem. I bought A nice truck which had a dandy fix of tires but the rims were never taken care. I use Mothers but it takes forever. I was told that there is a polish or spray that Kenworth Trucks makes; it's their ain brand do you know what it is?

Liz Phillips
- Okeechobee, Florida
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A. Steven: Brian's advice is probably skillful (thanks Brian!), but study up on the aircraft stripper earlier using information technology. This is really noxious methylene chloride based stuff, and goggles [affil. link to info/production on Amazon], Rubber Gloves [affil. link to info/product on Amazon], and splendid ventilation (working outdoors, upwind) are essential. The EPA has sent out several warnings about aircraft stripper.

Hullo, Liz. Sorry, I haven't heard of Kenworth polish, but nosotros have an informative and amusing thread on Making "Moonshine" Aluminum Smooth.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Ted Mooney , P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
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2002

Q. I would similar some advice on buffing out my grey factory auto rims. I would like to practise this myself and need to know what materials I need and what steps I should accept.

Melissa Kay Soles
- Whiteville, North Carolina
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2003

A. The "grey" wheels you're in reference are argent color powdercoated, which you have to remove if your want to smoothen and vitrify the bare aluminum to a mirror luster. Regardless of what you hear, the toughest, baddest, meanest strippers out there have a tough time removing pulverization coat.

You lot didn't mention the spoke configuration, but I recommend you remove just the blanket from the outermost surfaces for polishing and buffing to a mirror, chrome-similar luster. Surfaces other than the outermost surfaces, such as the sides of spokes, etc., are "adumbral" anyway, and it would exist much better to retain the original factory finish in these less visible areas for corrosion protection.

First, you need a wheel polishing fixture. Rob the base from a 4 or 5-legged office chair, pop off the casters, then mount it to a small piece of 3/4-inch particle board for a stable base. There you go...a rotating polishing fixture just the right height. Pop the tire off place the bicycle on top of the chair legs, loosely c-clamping it to each chair leg using a piece of condom pad as a non-slip cushioning pad. Rotate the cycle slowly and heart it by eyeball while tapping with a condom hammer. Information technology's pretty easy to get it right on the button, and so snug up the c-clamps.

For mechanical removal of the pulverization glaze you need: (1) aluminum oxide-impregnated, nylon annoying wheels in graduated grits starting with 120-grit, going upward to around 220-grit, (2) a 1/iv-inch loftier-speed drill or flex shaft capable of at least 2500 RPM, and (3) a circular, random orbital sander with the same grit range sanding sheets.

Start at the edge of the rim with the 120-grit nylon wheel or random orbital sander, using combinations of all tools that all-time fit into the contours and features of spokes, etc. You'll notice the wheel starting to turn from the activeness of the wheel or random orbital sander. You don't want it to spin like crazy, but a slow turn for uniformity. This is easy to control by holding the wheel less than tangent to the wheel. Completely remove the scratch of a coarser wheel with that of the adjacent finer. This is a "have to." All prior scratch must exist removed by the next effectively. Your concluding sanding should exist done wet with a spray mist, rinse well, then wet mitt cease with a 3/xvi thick aluminum oxide sponge pad of about 300 or then grit for a flat, polish terminate. It volition go quick, even though its by hand. We are non set to shine and buff.

For polishing and buffing, outset with a yellow, mill-treated bias cut four-inch wheel using black emery. Alternatively, you could use a tight concentric sewn or spiral sewn vitrify. This is an aggressive compound so keep information technology moving, but information technology'south darn sure quicker and meliorate for these type contours than attempting to proceed sanding with subsequently effectively grits. You should come across a satin-like semi-shine when you've taken the compound to its total potential. Rinse very thoroughly with Dawn dish detergent and water. Do non leave the slightest spec of residual chemical compound or you will cross-contaminate the grits. I advise using the cheapy throw-away gloves y'all can buy anywhere they sell paint. Wash your hands between operations every bit well to forestall transferring grit to the next polishing operation.

Shift to a white, bias cut vitrify (not mill treated) and employ brownish tripoli [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] compound. Alternatively, you could utilise a concentric sewn buff sewn at 3/viii-inch pitch or greater. If you take the tripoli to its full potential, you'll run across a brilliant luster starting to appear. Clean with Dawn and rinse thoroughly over again, washing your gloved hands besides.

Change to a loose sewn cotton fiber muslin buff and apply white rouge [affil. link to info/production on Amazon]. Taken to its full potential, you will achieve a mirror luster. Continue the heat up while buffing. This chemical compound removes no cloth, but volition microscopically surface menstruum material due to estrus and the extremely fine particle size of the grit. Clean with Dawn detergent and rinse over again. Go out your sunglasses.

You're going to have a garage or store mess that nothing else slightly compares...unbelievable...a messy black, greasy, buffing dust everywhere and on everything. It'south of a particle size that makes flour seem like gravel. To eliminate a lot of that at the source, use a box fan on each side of where your are working. Duct tape a furnace filter to the intake side, notching a slit for the ability cord to leave. Remove the grills to upwards the flow. There'south a ton of info yous demand to know that exceeds what is appropriate in this small-scale space.

Unless sealed, bare aluminum alloy is going to be quickly oxidized by atmospheric salts. Do a web search on Boeshield T-9 [affil. link to info/product on Amazon]. This is a production developed past Boeing now licensed by the third party chemical processor/distributor. It's a spray on/wipe off textile that's an boggling penetrant reminding you of spraying WD-twoscore [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] on something. Even so, as a deep penetrant to both aluminum and ferrous substrates, it seals and retains the "moisture-look" for months. Depending on coastal vs inland apply, reapply every 6-9 months. Only takes a second; merely spray on, wipe off. It's skillful for nigh 250 °F.

You tin can alternatively use "Alcoa Sealer." Do a web search and y'all'll discover it. This product seals entirely differently in that it is an isopropanol/inorganic formulation that'a most the nigh flammable stuff on the planet. It'southward a spray on, h2o rinse production. The rinse is a critical part of the sealing procedure, so rinse extremely well. However, before application, the wheel must exist bone, bone dry or it volition streak. Too, I suggest doing this at fifty% humidity or less and the production and wheel first stabilized to lxx °F or then. You need to know that the Alcoa Sealer will e'er and then slightly degrade a mirror luster. It's as well good for 6-9 months, depending on coastal vs inland utilise. The Alcoa Sealer is actually intended for bare aluminum, commercial truck wheels. As truck wheels are exposed to enormous heat as a heat sink from hard braking, the product is skilful by grand °F, the melting temp range of aluminum, anyway.

Y'all now accept mega-buck, sealed, mirror luster, chrome-similar wheels. Unless you've taken measures to command the shop mess, you no uncertainty fully agree that the best style to practise this is with a pen and checkbook.

Hope this helps, Greybeard

Lynn Thou. Perry, Sr.
retired - Plano, Texas
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2007

A. The simple way is to send them to the pros to be stripped or stripped and polished they should only price 25 ea to strip you will spend a lot more than that to purchase strippers.

David Chocolate-brown
- high point, North Carolina
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To minimize search efforts and to offer multiple viewpoints, we combined previously carve up threads onto this folio. Delight forgive any resultant repetition, failures of chronological lodge, or what may look similar readers disrespecting previous responses -- those other responses may not accept been on the page at the fourth dimension :-)

2002

Q. I am too trying to find a way to smooth aluminum wheels -- and do it myself.

Chrome is As well flashy - the powder cast aluminum that came on the car (Mercedes) is too dull and collects dirt - especially brake dust. I take seen it done for $250 by car garage and it looks great and the brake dust doesn't stick as much - but no 1 here in town does that. Can't I purchase a buffer and the right compound or something and do it myself?

Dale Roberts
- Columbia, Missouri
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2002

A. I'm attempting the same things. It looks similar the Eastwood Company has kits and so you lot spray a clear glaze and they're protected from oxidation. Oasis't tried it. Looks good.

Corbyn VanBrunt
- Tulsa, Oklahoma
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2003

Q. I'm trying to polish some cast aluminum wheels too. Its really hard to get the tarnish and stains off, but once yous get them actually nice looking in that location'southward stuff called ZoopSeal.

And it seals the Aluminum upward to like two years. It's better than clear coat too because information technology doesn't starting time to skin and chip off afterwards a while.

Nicholas Giacalone
- Cottage Hills, Illinois
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Ed. note: According to a plausible posting on www.svtperformance.com, ZoopSeal no longer exists, and its inventor replaced it with ShineSeal [affil. link to info/production on Amazon].

2003

A. Maybe this will help.....

Vitrify & Polish Metal--

The listing of tools/equipment needed and a step past step how to smoothen your Throttle Body... A good reference video on the "how to polish" tin be purchased from Eastwood. I utilize Craftsman and Eastwood Tools, and all Eastwood buffing wheels & compounds

A 1.v HP Craftsman 8 inch buffer (3450 RPM), a .5 HP variable speed craftsman grinder 6 inch (2000-3450 RPM) with an expander sanding bike from Eastwood, a craftsman Dremel [affil. link to info/product on Amazon], a Craftsman item sander, Craftsman palm sander, and a good pair of gloves are needed.

The Compounds and Wheels Needed--

There are three chief compounds needed for buffing. (There are other compounds for plastic, not stainless & aluminum metals)
i. tripoli [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] chemical compound, which volition have a slight cutting ability used for aluminum.
two. stainless compound [affil. link to info/product on Amazon], which volition too have a slight cutting ability used on stainless steel.
three. white rouge [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] compound, which has no cutting ability and polishes either aluminum or stainless to a bright shine. Again, White Rouge merely polishes no smoothing / cutting ability.

Buffing Wheels

There are 2 main types of buffing wheels needed. Each wheel must only accept i type of compound on it, never mix compounds on the same wheel.

1. A spiral sewn buffing bike, used for Tripoli or Stainless compound.
ii. A loose cycle, used for White Rouge compound. The size of the wheel depends on the awarding. The eight inch bike (spiral or loose) is for the buffer and fairly large metal pieces. They make one inch wheels for the Dremel likewise as other small buffing attachments for tough to achieve areas.

Sanding Materials/Newspaper...

There are several types of sandpaper needed. I mainly use the six inch Eastwood expander bicycle to sand with. And so I will apply the detail sander, palm sander, and sanding accessories for the Dremel for tight areas.
1. Eastwood Expander Cycle -- 220, 400, 700, 1200 grit belt wheels.
2. Particular Sander -- 400 dust.
3. Palm Sander -- 400 grit.
4. Dremel -- 220 dust pulsate sander. Getting started on the Throttle Body... Make certain the part beingness polished is at room temperature along with the buffing area. This volition allow the chemical compound to menses evenly on the part being polished.

Step 1. Sand the unabridged TB. I used 400 grit belt then finishing with a 700 grit belt. Do non exceed 2000 RPM using the variable speed Craftsman half-dozen in grinder and the Eastwood Expander bicycle. Use the 400 grit belt to sand off any casting marks and crude areas. Then apply the 700 grit belt to sand the TB perfectly smooth. Note: Sanding is an art; make certain in that location are no low and loftier spots especially on larger flat surfaced parts. If in that location are it will testify and accept poor reflective properties. After using the expander bike, apply the detail sander and Dremel for the tight areas. This is a very of import pace, if it is non shine like drinking glass it will non polish like a mirror. A shiny rough surface looks bad and has a poor reflection.

Step ii. Then utilise the eight inch spiral bicycle on the i.5 HP 3450 Craftsman buffer with Tripoli compound. The Tripoli compound volition smooth any sanding marks to make the surface smoother. Remember, Tripoli has some cutting/smoothing power to remove minor scratches. For the tight spots utilize the Dremel and a i inch spiral bicycle and a cone attachment with the Tripoli chemical compound. This is where 75% of the buffing takes place.

Step three. Later on you lot are done with step ii, you may demand to re-sand if in that location are marks left afterwards buffing with the Tripoli Chemical compound. Remember smooth = groovy shine.

Step iv. Then use the eight inch loose wheel on the 1.v HP 3450 RPM craftsman buffer with White Rouge compound. The White Rouge compound does not take any cutting power. Remember, White Rouge will just smoothen the metal. For the tight spots utilise the Dremel and a 1 inch loose wheel and a cone attachment with the White Rouge chemical compound. After completing step 4, the part should shine like chrome. Reminders & Tips:
ane. The metallic you are buffing must be warm to the bear on or the compound will collect on it.
2. Too, use lacquer thinner [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] to clean the part to remove the excess compound in the cracks after y'all are complete.
3. Practice non mix compounds on the same bicycle.
4. Use a metal shine such as "Blueish Magic" [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] to maintain the polish.
5. Remember, y'all tin can smoothen a rough surface but the reflection will not be as good as a shine surface. Basically for Stainless parts substitute Stainless Compound for the Tripoli Compound and use the same steps above.

JC [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Mission, Texas
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2003

Hey JC from Mission Texas, very absurd commodity on metal polishing.

Mase Molina
- Mission, Texas
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Some real polishing tips

2004

! I'm going to help you people out a piddling flake

First off depending on the roughness of material choose your grit ex. cast 180, billet 220, if it'southward real porous material maybe first with 120. If you sand with similar eighty dust your going to be at that place for a while getting all the gouges yous put in out.

I never sand aluminum with more than 320 and so it goes to the buffing machine where various buffs and compounds are used from harder buffs and blackness or brown rouge to softer buffs and green or white rouge [affil. link to info/product on Amazon] there is no set time on how long to buff something it all done by trained eye or practice to know what you are looking for before moving to the next step

I apply some special products that are bought in bulk to assist in faster cutting such as buffs or emery bike sisals and so on because of the demand of quicker turnarounds but the tips given are the existent way a office should be polished and won't accept your life expectancy or a case of fingers and elbow grease

HOPE THIS SAVES You lot GUYS SOME Time! AND Beginning PRACTICING.

justin mcconnell
custom polishing shop wheel repair - merced, California
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2004

A. Extreme metal polish has worked the best for me. I too have aluminum rims on a off-road truck and polish often. Simply use a small piece of textile and rub it on. Once it turns black (from Oxidation) accept it off with some other clean cloth. Then Polish with soft rag. It will look similar yous just had them professionally done!

Glenn Merg
- Los Angeles, California
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2005

Q. I Accept SOME MICKEY THOMPSON RIMS THAT ARE IN GOOD CONDITION Merely HAVE CALCIUM DEPOSITS ON It FROM THE HARD WATER IN THIS Area. I CANNOT Notice THE RIGHT CLEANER. I Have TRIED A FEW Dissimilar THINGS IN AREAS THAT Will NOT SHOW IF It DOESN'T Piece of work. THE But RESULTS I HAVE FOUND IS THAT EVERYTHING I HAVE TRIED FORMS A CLOUDY COAT ON MY RIMS AND Information technology TAKES FOREVER TO GET Information technology OFF. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A SOLUTION THAT Will REMOVE CALCIUM DEPOSITS OFF OF BRAND NEW RIMS. I HAVE TRIED Most EVERYTHING BUT Zero SEEMS TO GET ME THE RESULTS I WANT. I WANT MY RIMS LOOKING Like THEY Just CAME OUT OF THE BOX THEY ARE Just ABOUT three MONTHS One-time Nonetheless Smoothen BUT IF You lot LOOK Close YOU CAN SEE THE CIRCLES OF CALCIUM AND IT DRIVES ME NUTS I AM A Bang-up FREAK. IF ANYONE KNOWS OF A SOLUTION THAT WORKS THAT DEFINITELY WORKS PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANKS FOR YOUR TIME. But A REMINDER THEY ARE POLISHED ALUMINUM AND I DON'T WANT THEM RUINED. Thanks AGAIN.

RESPECTFULLY,

KEVIN BROCKWAY
- JACKSONVILLE North Carolina
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2005

i Polishing bandage is a lot of work but very dainty when washed. Allow me know what questions you have or anything I can practise for you.

Stew Kincade
- New Brunswick , Canada
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Feb 2, 2008

A. I was about to throw my wheels away and get new ones because I could non get the acid stains (streaks) out of them. I tried everything -- even the $20.00 a bottle stuff from the Detail Shop that was supposed to clean them.

Mothers did nothing, wheels cleaner spray from the auto parts store didn't work. So, I'm at my wits end when I decide to effort something off the wall.

My kids have a remote control gas car and the fuel for it is 20% Blueish Thunder Nitro Fuel .

I put some on a rag and rubbed the wheel -- AND IT WORKED! Information technology leaves a haze on the wheel just when I went over it with Mothers Smoothen -- the darned thing looked like new.

Blueish Thunder Nitro R/C Car fuel. Holy Cow.

Chris Costa
- Pomona, California
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July 6, 2009

-- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q. I want to clean, buff and sealcoat my alloy wheels before I go new tires put on my truck. I believe I allowed the stains to attack the wheels after using an annoying to clean the wheels early in their life. I would like to know how and what to use both to strip and recoat the wheels. I would also like to do this with the old tire still on the rim but off the truck, however.

Al Davis
hobbyist - Jacksonville, Florida
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February 5, 2022

A. Using Aircraft Stripper to remove all of the Clear Coat applied to the wheel and so follow the instructions listed above, you should exist able to starting time with the tripoli [affil. link to info/production on Amazon] if your wheels are already smooth.

Ray Keske
- Tulsa, Oklahoma
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May 14, 2022

A. Hello. Folks- Ever read the warnings on a bottle of Brake Fluid? "Practice Non Go THIS ON Pigment". I simply utilize a stick/sponge applicator(stain), and brush on a thick coat- ANYWHERE you want to REMOVE almost Any blanket (Acrylic, Enamel, Lacquer, etc). Let sit down about 1 hr- then scrub with a grease cutting soap-filled SOS pad- rinse with hot water, blow or towel dry. Repeat as necessary- to completely remove any paint or coating. Brake fluid WILL Non Damage your tires, plastic trim, or drinking glass. Accidentally got overspray? With a microfiber material- finger dip (Nitrile glove) Restriction fluid, rub off overspray, wash off fluid with lather & water. Brake fluid works with Time- not endeavor. Mode SAFER than harsh "chemical" removers- that can BURN (corrode) metallic. Cheers.

Bob Spencer
- Utica, New York, USA
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Feb 12, 2022

Q. Do yous accept any suggestions for preventing corrosion of the dewdrop area of aluminum automobile wheels?

Pecker Maynard
- Sanford, Michigan, Us
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Feb 12, 2022

A. Howdy Beak. We appended your research to a previous thread on a somewhat related subject where Lynn Perry suggests Boeshield T-nine, and information technology sounds to me like information technology would be a good product for the bead area. An culling corrosion preventer would be chromate conversion coating (Alodine), only this has some toxicity issues so it would probably just be applicable if y'all are a professional restoration shop rather than an individual (it isn't clear to me from your letter which ane you lot are). Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Ted Mooney , P.Eastward.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
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December 16, 2022

-- this entry appended to this thread past editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q. I am looking to purchase a new Chevrolet that has 18" Factory/OEM Aluminum Wheels. They seem a lilliputian on the dull side. Is there anything that can exist done to make them shine to expect more similar chrome?

Paul Piazza
Buyer - Brentwood, California
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December 20, 2022

A. Hello Paul,
I don't recall you lot are able to shine upwardly Aluminum alloy rims to friction match chrome. They are usually a semi-bright to a matte stop. I have seen cases where a dealership detailer volition mistakenly employ a harsh detergent (highly alkaline in nature) on rims that altered the finish. You could endeavor a good aluminum polish bachelor at an motorcar parts store. Skilful Luck with your new vehicle!

Marker Baker
Process Engineer - Phoenix, Arizona USA
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Vibratory Polishing of Automotive Wheels

May 24, 2022

Hello my name is David, I have been having problems with vibratory polishing of automotive wheels and parts pitting on the surfaces of items I shine.

The machines are for wheel polishing, the wheels are mounted firmly in the polisher and media moves around the wheel.

I have tried just about everything I can think of including 3 different brands of burnishing compound, new media, different motor angles and motor directions, motor speeds, cycle times, different dosing amounts and so on.

I use a 3 step process, one machine is setup for grinding and fine grinding, the 2nd car is used just for polishing with 4mm ceramic balls and burnishing compound.

The pitting seems to just exist nowadays on the surface facing upwardly in the machines, no pitting on the sides or dorsum of the wheels, I have tried putting the bike in face down only go same results.

I tin take a cycle and polish it to a mirror terminate mechanically with a buffer, identify information technology in the polisher with ceramic media and burnishing chemical compound run it for a bike and it volition come out with pitting on it. Which leads me to believe it is all happening in the final stage of the polishing process.

I am running out of ideas and looking for suggestions.

I am attaching a pic for reference.

8632-1

Thank Y'all

David Burke
- Beaver Bank, Nova Scotia, Canada
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July 8, 2022

A. If you lot bought the wheel machine new, you should bank check with the manufacturer and double cheque the sales contract. Pits or dings are usually a sign of a too aggressive movement of the media against the part.

tony kenton
AF Kenton
retired business possessor - Hatboro, Pennsylvania
^

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